I popped a pod into the Nespresso machine in my hotel room, letting the woody, caramel aroma of rooibos fill the air as the tea brewed. Rooibos, Afrikaans for “red bush,” is native to the rugged Cederberg Mountains of South Africa’s Western Cape. This region, with its scorching summers and freezing winters, is the only place on Earth where rooibos thrives—a testament to its resilience.
In February, I ventured along the N7 highway north of Cape Town to explore the Rooibos Route, a journey that immerses travelers in the world of rooibos through farms, factories, tea shops, and restaurants. Along the way, I sampled rooibos in forms I never imagined—tea, milkshakes, martinis, steak sauce, and even as an exfoliant during a luxurious massage.
Tracing Rooibos Back to Its Roots
One morning, I joined a guided Land Cruiser tour at the Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve & Wellness Retreat. Our guide, Byron Hartung, led us to one of 130 ancient rock-art sites scattered across the property. These pictographs, created by the San—the region’s original inhabitants—are estimated to be 3,000 to 10,000 years old. The San viewed the rock not just as a canvas but as a portal to a spiritual realm.
Rooibos was historically used by the San as a medicinal remedy, and modern research has confirmed its health benefits. Rich in polyphenols, rooibos may support heart health, regulate blood sugar, and even help protect against certain cancers. Yet, for years, the Indigenous communities that discovered and perfected rooibos reaped little benefit from its global popularity.
A Milestone for Indigenous Recognition
In 2022, South Africa took a significant step forward with a groundbreaking agreement recognizing Indigenous South Africans as the traditional knowledge holders of rooibos. Under this agreement, community trusts now receive 1.5% of the nation’s annual raw rooibos sales. These funds aim to support development and aid projects across the country, marking a crucial shift toward equity and inclusion in the industry.
The Birth of the Rooibos Route
The idea for the Rooibos Route was born from years of curiosity. Tourists often asked Sanet Stander, a local tea shop owner, about visiting rooibos farms. In 2012, she formalized the concept, launching a website that outlines activities like farm tours and tea-tasting experiences.
One of my stops was the Wupperthal Original Rooibos Cooperative in the Tra-Tra Valley, where over 70 Indigenous farmers grow rooibos on small plots. Here, traditional methods reign supreme, with farmers harvesting shrubs by hand using sickles. The cooperative’s headquarters—a whitewashed, thatched-roof building—dates back to the early 19th century and reflects the area’s rich history.
Rooibos: A Protected Treasure
In 2021, rooibos became the first African product to earn “protected designation of origin” status, similar to how champagne is exclusive to France. This recognition ensures that only South African-grown rooibos can bear the name. Edgar Valentyn, a fifth-generation farmer in Wupperthal, emphasized its importance: “This protection secures a future for small-scale farmers like us. It’s our heritage.”
Exploring Rooibos History and Industry
In Clanwilliam, the Ou Tronk Museum showcases the history of rooibos through vintage tools, packaging, and artifacts. A standout feature is a collection of rooibos samples curated by Benjamin Ginsberg, a Russian immigrant who helped commercialize the tea in the early 20th century.
I also visited Skimmelberg, an organic farm with 300 acres of rooibos. Here, Scandinavian tourists and I observed the fermenting and drying process, even rubbing the burnt-orange leaves between our fingers. The rich color—so iconic it inspired a Pantone Fashion Trend Report hue—seemed destined to spread globally, not just through tea but in fashion and art.
A Farewell Cup of Hope
My final stop was the Carmién Tea Shop near Citrusdal, often referred to as the gateway to the Rooibos Route. Over a final cup of tea, sales manager Liezel van der Merwe shared her thoughts on South Africa’s unity and resilience. “Rooibos symbolizes hope,” she said. “Just like our rugby team and our Grammy-winning artists, it keeps the nation inspired.”
Rooibos, deeply rooted in South Africa’s land and culture, is more than just a tea—it’s a story of heritage, resilience, and hope, resonating both locally and globally. As the industry evolves, its significance continues to grow, making it a vital piece of current affairs and global news.
